




















1/2 lemon
8 oz smoked bacon pieces
freshly ground black pepper (optional)
freshly grated nutmeg (optional)
1/2 cup dry white Provencal wine
4 fresh bay leaves
a handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped
Serves 4
Tear off and discard the two outer base layers of leaves from the artichokes. Trim or peel the stems. Slice about 2 inches off the pointed tops of the leaves. Cut each globe in half lengthwise.
Use a spoon or a melon baller to dig out the fluffy choke. discard this and the tiny leaves around it. Rub the lemon over all the cut surfaces. Prepare all the artichokes in the same way.
Heat a large, heavy-based saucepan or flameproof casserole dish until very hot. Sizzle the bacon until the fat runs: about 3 minutes.
Add some pepper and nutmeg (if using), the wine, and bay leaves. Put the artichokes in the pan, cut side down. Cover tightly and cook over high heat for 5 minutes. Rearrange the artichokes so that the top layer is now at the bottom. Cover and cook over a medium-low heat for 20-25 minutes more. Test the top layer: the artichoke flesh must be easy to pierce with a fork. Continue cooking if necessary. Top up with extra wine if it looks sparse.
Serve the artichokes hot or warm, sprinkled with luscious reduced sauce and some chopped parsley.
Note: Quarter the artichokes, if necessary, to fit them in the pan

From France Today, originally published in Flavors of Provence by Clare Ferguson. Ryland Peters & Small, $21.95,


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* Les Treize Desserts de Noel:
At Christmastime in Provence, in the south of France, there’s a tradition of having a Christmas meal consisting largely of vegetables, followed by 13 desserts. 13 signifies the number of people at the last supper – Christ and his 12 apostles. The table should be decorated with 3 candlesticks, representing the Trinity. The meal and dessert are eaten before the family goes to midnight mass on Christmas.
1. Black Nougats – Symbolizing evil – Hard candy made with honey and almonds.
2. White Nougats – Symbolizing good – Soft candy made with sugar, eggs, pistachios, honey, and almonds.
These four are supposed to symbolize beggars, represented by four religious orders (Franciscans, Dominicans, Carmelite Nuns, Augustinians):
The symbol of Mary and Jesus’ safe journey from the East:
7. Dates
Some of the other desserts eaten, depending on the region, are:
Finally with these desserts, one drinks cooked wine, representing Jesus himself.
One must have a taste of each dessert to have good luck for the whole year.

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